![]() ![]() Anyone coming here for the first time would be turned off to anything associated with prepping by the “mister grumpy pants” demeanor and tenor of these whiny responses to the OP’s post. While the OP’s writing could use a little polishing the point was to spark interest in a (for the uninitiated) little known topic, related to prepping and survival, that could be very useful. Did you expect it to be more than that in a page of a blog post? If you did, then you need to rethink exactly where the problem of “not gettin it right” is. (look at my post above for books) If you aren’t on a topic specific forum for an explicit item and for a specific question, you don’t expect SME level information. Two, this isn’t a book, it is a blog post. One, I never trust anyone that has to say “trust me…”. Putting a wad in a real ML gun will cause trouble. Real muzzleloaders (not the modern in-line variety) need patches – not wads. If you are going to load the gun, you should fire it within a couple of hours at most. No patch lube should be put into the gun and left there long term. ![]() Commercial patch lube (oil-based) can actually cause fouling in the barrel to increase. When using a muzzleloader, using spit patches (yes, spit from your own mouth) can dramatically reduce the fouling in the barrel and avoid having to clean during a multi-shot hunt or trail walk. ![]() Never play with it! Store it securely in a low moisture and heat location. Not cleaning your firearm after ANY use is a sure way to make it worthless.Īn added bonus to using black powder is that it can be used for many other things in a survival scenario. Pistols are cleaned in exactly the same way as a rifle. We have used this method for many years and consistently have better looking barrels than many of our fellow muzzleloaders. It will prevent moisture from getting in and causing trouble. We also put some patch lube on a patch and wedge it into the end of the barrel when getting ready to store the gun after cleaning. We actually use WD40 because it removes the last vestiges of any fouling and definitely protects the barrel. Once the barrel and all the other parts are cleaned in the solution and with the pick, be sure to apply an oil to the metal parts. The reply above speaking about using a tube to pull this mixture into the barrel is right on. We use hot soapy water to start, then use a solution of Murphy’s oil soap mixed with Windex (no other brand). It was a good and valid post for most of the people that have MLs. They’ve all gone to the pre-measured pellets. You almost can’t find granular black powder or Pyrodex. I was, and this was over half a decade ago. If you go to deer camp with a traditional smoke pole, you’ll be the only one there. for traditional MLs are not typically sold at larger stores. The correct bullet calibers, proper weights, patches, grease, etc. I THOUGHT I knew all there was to know about MLs, been shooting them for years. It will shoot 2 foot groups at 100yds…ask me how I know this. The same goes for putting a 50 cal sabot down a traditional ML (with whatever caliber bullet is loaded in the sabot) it won’t shoot worth spit. If you stuff a real 50 cal projectile down a NEW 50 cal rifle (if you can) it won’t shoot well. 308 cal 150gr spire point needs a 1 in 12 spin. Fifty cal bullets need a 1 in 22″ spin but a fifty cal shooting a sabot with a. The new MLs are made for faster rifling spin rates and typically smaller caliber bullets, and shot with a sabot. Well, if you have a traditional ML then you’ll be disappointed because you won’t find much. Here about 6 or 7 years ago, I pulled out my 50 cal Hawken style smoke pole, cleaned it and then went to the BassPro shop to buy some shoottin stuff. Mr Howell as much as I “feel your pain” the OP is actually “more righter” than you.
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